IJlst
About five kilometers south of Sneek is IJlst/Drylts. IJlst originated around the year 1000 when farmers and workers settled between the waterways the Ee/Ye and the Geeuw/Geau. Cottages and farms were built on both sides of the Ee northward. Part of that settlement also included the construction of a church, the R.C. Mauritius Church, and a large mansion, the Ylostins. In 1268, IJlst received city rights and became the fourth largest city in Friesland. IJlst developed into an important trading town in wood. Its rich past can still be seen in the old part of the town.
IJlst is surrounded and intersected by waterways. The river Ee crosses the town and was the beating heart of its activity. Two so-called dike ditches – east and west – and the Geeuw surrounded IJlst and protected the inhabitants from undesired activities from outside. Characteristic of the banks of the Ee are the overtuinen, old linden trees and beautiful historic buildings on the Eegracht and Galamagracht. The Uilenburg is also worth mentioning.
IJlst’s trade revolved primarily around wood, skate timbers, shipbuilding and the making of woodworking tools such as chisels, planes, etc. in many types and designs. IJlst was the birthplace of the Frisian wooden traversers, the “houtsjes”. These were made in several skate factories such as Frisia and the firm of Nooitgedagt. The latter also produced tools and wooden toys. Nooitgedagt was a major employer and of great importance to IJlst and the surrounding area.
IJlst now is a small town of about 3,300 inhabitants. Still, there is plenty to experience. Again, water sports play a big role and there is much to learn about; the history of IJlst, woodworking, shipbuilding and more. The town guides will be happy to tell you about it.
Get a stamp?
You can get the stamp for IJlst at Eetcafé De Utherne. It is a real meeting place for young and old, IJlster or passer-by, tourist or runner. So feel free to take a seat on the beautiful sunny terrace and enjoy the clatter of the water from the flower fountain, which you can see from the terrace. They have delicious plates and generously filled baguettes. Also for take-out or delivery.
In the off-season the times are adjusted. Therefore, always check the Utherne Ijlst website for current times.
You can also park here to admire the rest of the town.
Every day you can stamp at Utherne. Should Utherne be closed you can do so at the VVV in IJlst. See the opening hours on the website.
What to do in IJlst?
Even though IJlst is only small, the town is definitely worth a visit. We have listed the best things to do in IJlst for you!
1. Fountain
As in all elfsteden, a fountain has been placed in IJlst in 2018. The name of the fountain in IJlst is “Immortal Flowers – Rikka. The fountain was created by Japanese artist Shinji Ohmaki. In the fountain you can see the history of IJlst combined with Japanese flower art, Ikebana. The fountain symbolizes the eternal connection between man, culture and nature. Combine a visit to the fountain with the 11fountains walking tour. This will take you past all the highlights of IJlst and past the outdoor exhibition Schepenfries on the history of IJlst.
2. Mill the Rat
IJlst was and is a true timber town. The logs ended up in IJlst and were sawn into beams or planks for all kinds of purposes. Sawing was done on wind power with the sawmills, IJlst had three sawmills at that time. Around 1920, wind power was replaced by electricity.
Wood saw mill De Rat was built in 1711 and originally stood in the Zaan region. There it fell silent and was then bought by timber merchant and mayor Ringnalda of IJlst, shipped to IJlst and rebuilt. Since 1829 it stands proudly at the Geeuw and still saws wood every week for its customers. In 1850 it was taken over by the local lumberyard Oppedijk.
Until 1950 the mill was in use. A demolition permit was requested but refused by the province of Friesland. Subsequently, the municipality of IJlst became the new owner. Restoration plans were made and over time
implemented. Since 1978 it is again in full use for sawing wood as it has been for more than 300 years. During a visit to the mill you can see for yourself how it is done. You may be lucky and see how a log, which has been lying in the water near the mill for at least a year, is dragged in on wind power to be sawn. A spectacular sight!
Mill The Rat has two professional millers. They ensure the smooth running of the mill and also train volunteers to become millers. The miller’s craft and mill-related crafts such as blacksmithing and sail-making must be preserved, and we are working hard to do so. The mill is now a National Monument and owned by the municipality of Súdwest Fryslân. The Stichting Houtzaagmolen De Rat mill is in charge of its management, maintenance and operation.
3. Museum and Workshop Houtstad IJlst
In addition to sawing wood, wooden products were also made in IJlst. For shipping, they made wooden ships in IJlst, including Kogge’s, seagoing sailboats, wooden prams and more. A good picture of this is provided by the permanent 9 piece “ships frieze” placed at the corner Dassenborch- Sudergowei.
For the winters when they could only go over ice, there were the wooden Frisian traversers in Friesland better known as houtsjes. Perhaps you yourself have learned to skate on a pair of so-called timbers from IJlst! To learn much more about wood production in IJlst, visit Museum and workshop Houtstad IJlst. Near this workshop is also mill de Rat.
4. Tour
Near the museum and mill is the Wooden Bok, a replica of a wooden pram that was made and used in IJlst. With the Wooden Bok you can take a cruise through and around IJlst. You can sign up at the tourist office at Geeuwkade 4.
5. Overgardens
On both sides of the Ee in IJlst you see so-called overtuinen. Those gardens used to be used for drying and bleaching white laundry. For the inhabitants of the moat, those gardens were across the street, so that’s where the name comes from. Nowadays white laundry is no longer bleached that way, but IJlst’s gardens have been preserved. The gardens belong to the municipality, but the inhabitants of IJlst use and maintain them. The first Saturday in June the ‘Overtuinenfair’ also takes place here.
6. Hiking and biking
Of course, the surroundings of IJlst are also very suitable for beautiful walks and bicycle tours. In addition to the walking route from the fountain, there is also an experience route through the town. During this walk writer and poet Teerdze Holtrop takes you along important places from his youth. You can also book a guided city walk at the tourist office.
Two beautiful bicycle tours around the city are Rondje IJlst which goes past the surrounding villages (52km) and the Vierstedentocht which goes right through the meadows past four of the Frisian Eleven Cities. This route is 100km, you can also choose to skip 1 town.
7. Boat rental
Last but not least in this list of things to do in IJlst: you can easily rent a boat in the town to discover Friesland from the water. Of course, you can opt for a boat driven by a motor, but you can also roll up your sleeves yourself! The Reidmarroute takes you through a landscape with endless vistas, farms and tranquil hamlets. From the Frisian lakes you can easily reach Bolsward or IJlst. Still prefer to sail by motorcycle? Then beware. This route is an electric-only route.